The late James Laver, historian of dress and keeper of prints in the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, used to stress this aspect of male attire. In inflationary times like the Tudor period, men wore their wealth on their backs in the form of jewelled doublets, collars of esses and so forth. In the stable Victorian period, men wore plain clothes and modest Links of London Jewellery, to show that their money was in the bank. And all to impress women and male rivals.

In a way, designer jewels are factory goods, inviting a stock response. But firms like Cartier and Tiffany are very important in the history of Links of London Necklaces, as of other jewelry. This is clear from a splendid monograph on the subject, lavishly illustrated in color, by Susan Jonas and Marilyn Nissenson, Cuff Links (Abrams, New York, 1991) in which the story of these trinkets is meticulously recorded.

It was from Cartier on Bond Street in 1935 that Wallis Simpson, the American hag who lured Edward VIII from his throne, ordered her royal lover a regal gift. The custom-made cuff-links were set in platinum with baguette diamonds and rubies spelling E and W, and inscribed “Hold Tight 7/5/35.” Edward, then Prince of Wales, was not very bright, but like his bride-to-be, he did understand links of london Teddy Charm and clothes. He’s credited with having introduced the Windsor knot and the chalk pinstripe double-breasted suit and Americans, at least, were deeply impressed.